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29
08
2007
Taman Negara (27. - 29.08.2007)
Für Malaysia-Touris ein Muss: Der älteste Dschungel der Erde, 130 Millionen Jahre alt, Taman Negara, was einfach nur der malaiische Begriff ist für "Nationalpark". Es gibt zwar noch ein paar andere, aber das ist eben
der Nationalpark Malaysias schlechthin.
Die Anreise ist ein bisschen umständlich: Mit dem Bus circa viereinhalb Stunden von KL nach Jerantut, von da aus noch einmal eine dreiviertel Stunde nach Kuala Tembeling, dann Umstieg ins Boot, zweistündige,
romantisch-idyllische Bootsfahrt zum Headquarter Kuala Tahan. ("Kuala Soundso" heißt hier übrigens jede zweite Stadt, wobei "Kuala" zu übersetzen ist mit "Flussmündung", "Kuala Lumpur" heißt schmeichelhafterweise "trübe Flussmündung").
Unsere Unterkunft gegenüber des Headquarters in Kumpang hält das Versprechen einer "
einfachen Behausung". Unsere Zimmergenossin Britta ist total zerstochen, also drappieren wir überglücklich unser "Mossinet" - man freut sich ja so über jeden Artikel, den man nicht umsonst rumschleppt. Schlimmer als die Insekten - mit denen rechnet man ja, wenn man in den Urwald geht - ist der Gestank der Toilette. Überhaupt sind die sanitären Anlagen unter aller Kanone und bringen uns an unsere Toleranzgrenze, was uns später dazu bewegt, in den Cameron Highlands eine höhere Luxusklasse zu wählen - irgendwie sind wir doch anspruchsvoller als gedacht...(Das auf dem Foto sind übrigens nicht unsere Klos, aber wahrscheinlich wäre das angenehmer gewesen, dann hätte der Kanalgeruch nämlich nicht unser Schlafzimmer ausgefüllt). Am Abend unserer Ankunft passiert nicht mehr viel, wegen Regen werden alle Touren abgesagt.
Am nächsten Tag lassen wir uns von einem Guide den Teresek Hill hochjagen. Unterwegs machen wir auch den Canopy Walk, die
längste Hängebrücke der Welt, von der gottseidank derzeit die Hälfte wegen Renovierungsarbeiten gesperrt ist. In 48 Metern Höhe stolpern wir über eine waghalsige Konstruktion, die ursprünglich für Vogelforscher (für Gebildete auch: Ornithologen) gebaut wurde. Thom hat seinen Spaß, ich bin im Wesentlichen damit beschäftigt die Angst runterzukämpfen und ziehe alle Register - autogenes Training, Meditation, Singen.
Am Nachmittag nehmen wir nach längerer Diskussion doch an dem Programmpunkt "Besuch des Orang Asli Village" teil, aber es ist wie erwartet ein zweifelhaftes Vergnügen. Wir fühlen uns wie Eindringlinge, laufen irritiert zwischen den Behausungen der Eingeborenen herum, schauen beschämt aus der Wäsche, versuchen ein Lächeln der Dorfbewohner zu erhaschen, beißen aber natürlich auf Granit. Insgesamt ist das Dorf ein bisschen eine
Müllhalde, unser Guide erklärt uns, dass es schwierig sei, den Dorfbewohnern beizubringen, nicht alles überall hinzuschmeißen. Da sind wohl zwei Welten auf einander gekracht, die noch nicht so ganz gut miteinander harmonieren. Die Eingeborenen - eigentlich Nomaden - haben sich wohl niedergelassen und leben vom Tourismus, sehen auch fern, wenn das Geld für Benzin für den Generator reicht, aber ansonsten leben sie in sehr einfachen Hütten, und - wenn man unserem Guide glaubt - machen sie gar nichts: Keine Rituale, keine Musik, keine Spiele. Beim Aufbruch sehen wir allerdings einen der Dorfbewohner in einer Hängematte mit Gitarre.
Später versuchen wir noch, ins Internet zu gehen, das gibt es offenbar auch an den abgeschiedensten Orten. Ist aber leider geschlossen wegen Regen. Außerdem läuft uns noch unser Travelkollege Sho aus Japan über den Weg, mit dem wir den Rest des Abends verbringen. Am nächsten Morgen entfliehen wir.
Carmen
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::get_plugin_title() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::load_plugin() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::probePlugin() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::getClassByInstanceID() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::includePlugin() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::get_plugin_title() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::load_plugin() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::probePlugin() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::getClassByInstanceID() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::includePlugin() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::get_plugin_title() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::load_plugin() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::probePlugin() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::getClassByInstanceID() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::includePlugin() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Declaration of serendipity_event_blogpdf::event_hook() should be compatible with serendipity_event::event_hook($event, &$bag, &$eventData, $addData = NULL) in
/www/htdocs/w008ba40/blog/plugins/serendipity_event_blogpdf/serendipity_event_blogpdf.php on line
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::get_plugin_title() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::load_plugin() should not be called statically in
/www/htdocs/w008ba40/blog/include/plugin_api.inc.php on line
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::probePlugin() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::getClassByInstanceID() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::includePlugin() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::get_plugin_title() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::hook_event() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::get_event_plugins() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::hook_event() should not be called statically in
/www/htdocs/w008ba40/blog/include/functions_entries.inc.php on line
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::get_event_plugins() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::hook_event() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::get_event_plugins() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::hook_event() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::get_event_plugins() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::count_plugins() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::count_plugins() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::hook_event() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::get_event_plugins() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::hook_event() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::get_event_plugins() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::hook_event() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::get_event_plugins() should not be called statically in
/www/htdocs/w008ba40/blog/include/plugin_api.inc.php on line
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::hook_event() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::get_event_plugins() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Only variables should be assigned by reference in
/www/htdocs/w008ba40/blog/plugins/serendipity_event_freetag/serendipity_event_freetag.php on line
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Deprecated: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::hook_event() should not be called statically, assuming $this from incompatible context in
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/www/htdocs/w008ba40/blog/include/functions_comments.inc.php on line
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Strict Standards: Only variables should be assigned by reference in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::hook_event() should not be called statically in
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Strict Standards: Non-static method serendipity_plugin_api::get_event_plugins() should not be called statically in
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